This post was written by Michael, and photos were taken on his iPhone 7:
I'll write my own version (with a lot less details) and Canon pictures soon.
A while back when we bought the house, it was a small dream
of mine to have a nice deck or patio outside of the screened in patio for us to
throw parties, entertain guests, and just be able to relax in the cool evenings
that Florida has to offer.
I didn’t want
to build something that would be lifted off of the ground since I didn’t want
to see over my 6’ fence into my neighbor's yard.
I started to brainstorm and though a paver patio would be
nice.
The bricks would look nice
and it would add a nice touch to the house.
However, when looking into the cost of the pavers and the amount of
pavers I’d need for the size deck I wanted, I quickly thought maybe it wouldn’t
be the best decision.
I kept
thinking and decided that I'd make a ground level wooden deck.
So I sat down and thought about the
best way to go about this.
I’d
have to build the deck off the ground so the moisture and water drainage
wouldn’t affect the deck over the course of how many years.
I did some research and created a plan
for the project.
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Here is the back of the house before we started the deck project. |
I started work on the deck on December 20, 2016. I began by staking out the size
footprint I wanted for the deck. I
had already picked out the furniture I was wanting and made sure I staked that
out as well in the areas I wanted it.
With some neon string (which Sasha continued to blindly trip over) I marked out everything and stepped back to make
sure that’s what I was wanting.
Once it was all measured out properly I began by digging up the
perimeter leaving some extra space to work. Let me tell you this was truly some backbreaking work. I took a few days carefully removing
all of the sod and saving that for later as well as all of the dirt that came
with it. I dug down about a foot
all around and started to level out the ground.
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Started with the stakes in the ground to the desired footprint. I started to dig down and remove the sod and dirt. |
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The sod and dirt completely removed. You can see our sprinkler lines running through the platform.
I had to be careful not to hit them. |
Once the ground was level I packed all of the dirt down
until it was firm all around. I
then measured out where my concrete pylons were going to go. I had bought some 8” tubing from Lowes
and some concrete made for deck pylons.
I dug down an additional 2’ for each pylon and placed the cardboard tubes
(already cut to size) into the holes.
I made sure each tube was level and filled the tubes about 4-5” with
multi-purpose concrete gravel. I
rechecked the tubes to make sure they were level and filled in dirt around the
outside of the tubes and packed it down.
Once the tubes were secure and level, I mixed up the concrete and poured
it into the tubes. I made sure
each tube had a little more concrete than needed. I read that you want to make the tops of the concrete slightly
beveled and rounded (like the top of a ball) so water won’t puddle up and rot
the wood away over time. I
carefully sculpted each pylon to a nice soft edge and once the concrete got
firmer I placed my 4” metal pylon brackets in. I made sure each bracket was level before moving onto the
next.
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Leveled out the dirt with a slight natural grade and raked the dirt to an even finish. |
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Freshly packed dirt. Still had to go back to fill in a couple of areas and pack them down. |
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Dug the 2' Deep holes for the pylons. |
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Leveled out the pylon tubes and inserted the gravel and prepared them for concrete. |
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Another shot of the tubes ready for concrete. |
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Concrete is added and the metal brackets are in place. Just waiting for the concrete to dry for 24 hours before using them. |
After 24 hours of curing time with the concrete, I moved
onto laying down some heavy weed cloth.
I made sure the ground was clean of any roots and debris and laid down
about 400’ of heavy weed control cloth. Rachel and I then moved onto cutting the wood for the legs of
the deck. I bought 12’ long pieces
of 4”x4” pressure treated wood. We
measured out the overall height of the deck including the decking and cut the
legs to length. We constantly made
sure the legs were level and in square.
I constantly had to cross check everything because the ground had a
natural grade to it so the legs looked like they sloped up as the ground sloped
down. It looked wonky for a few
days but then it came to look right.
Lol.
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Heavy weed cloth was laid down and holes for the metal brackets were cut to allow for them to come through. |
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Got all of the 4"x 4" wood cut and screwed into the brackets. As you can see it doesn't look level but that is because of the natural grade of the ground vs the deck level. |
Once the legs were screwed into the metal brackets that had
been embedded into the concrete pylons, I started work on the decking
frame. I built the frame out of
2”x 8” pressure treated wood and bought 12’ sections at a time. This cut down on price, but man were
these heavy. I cut each piece
according to the dimensions and attached it using 3.5” exterior decking
screws. Once the exterior frame
was made I continued to connect each section doing a grid pattern. I knew before I started this, which
ways I wanted my decking to run so I made sure that the joists were spaced
evenly and crossing each board making them structurally sound. Once all the joists and cross beams
were securely screwed in I started building up the bottom lip of the deck. Because the deck was level and the
ground wasn’t I needed to make sure that the bottom of the deck would be sealed
from any dirt and possible cave-in situations. I cut extra boards (the same I used for the framing) and
screwed that into the base of the deck adding a backing to the inside of the
deck. Once that was complete we
(my friend Brian helped from this point on) filled in the boarder with dirt and packed that down. Once the dirt was packed and was checked for caving in
issues, we moved onto cutting the decking.
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Getting the frame made. |
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The frame is almost done a few days later. Had to go pick up a few more boards to fill in some areas. |
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Another angle before I picked up more wood. |
I decided to go with the standard pressure treated wood
decking. I knew I wanted to stain
the deck so I wanted to make sure it was natural wood so I would see that
beautiful warm wood color. I bought 2.5” tan decking screws for the top and these bad boys were fantastic. Brian and I decided we wanted
an “organic” pattern to the deck and didn’t want a traditional repetitive
staggering of the wood. Not only
would this make it easier to just cut and screw but also it gave it a much more
natural and interesting look to the project. He cut the boards and staggered them as I followed behind
screwing in each board. It was
nice that any smaller pieces we could use to connect a few joists together and
give a more organic look. We made
sure each board had a start and finish on a joist and would share that joist
with a new board. We didn’t want
any “floating” sections to break over the years.
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Test fitting some boards and getting the overall look we were going for. |
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Screwing down the boards one at a time. Trying to keep up with Brian. |
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Decking is all complete and needs to be trimmed. |
Once all the decking was attached we marked out the angles
and left a little bit of overhang (about 2”) for aesthetic reasons. We marked out cutting line using a
chalk line and with a circular saw cut the excess wood off the sides. I will say it was at this point that
the deck started to look pretty professional. I was actually surprised. Lol. Once the
decking was all cut and finished we moved onto landscaping. I knew ahead of time what I was wanting
as far as plants went. Since this
deck was “ground level” it wasn’t going to have a railing however I did want to
make a nice “railing” around it using some shrubs. I bought a few Podocarpus plants because they are very easy
to trim into any shape and they will end up growing into each other creating a
wall-like shrub. I then bought a
few Leyland cypress trees that were planted around the corners of the
deck. I will keep these “trees”
within 6’ tall by trimming them.
We threw some red mulch down and embedded a 12’ 4”x 4” pressure treated
pole and cemented that into the ground at the end of the deck. This pole is for the support of the
string lights that were next on the list.
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Finished cutting the sides of the deck off and started to lay out the landscaping. |
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Finished getting the landscaping done and the furniture on the patio. |
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Another angle. Sorry it's a bit dark. We worked hard into the night. |
Once the landscaping and the pole were in place I needed to
wire the string lights up.
I bought
some of the new “commercial” string lights Lowes started to carry.
They were cheaper than ones online but
were still more expensive than the consumer lights most stores sell, but will last a lot longer.
These string lights had a heavy-duty
electrical cord and a nice rubber socket connected to rings to hang the
lights. You can find the link for them here:
I bought some 3/32
stainless steel wire with stainless connectors to use as my guide wires from
the pole to the house.
I strung up
5 guidelines from the pole to points on the house.
I made sure these were nice and taught before hanging the
lights.
I used black zip ties to
hang the lights to the guidelines.
This gave me the ability to move and shift the lines once up if I needed
to space them out.
Once the lights
were hung I needed to move an outlet from the house exterior wall to the
pole.
I should have done this
before adding the decking, however, it wasn’t that much of an issue.
I used exterior rubber conduit and
exterior waterproof boxes for the electrical.
I ran the wires from the exterior outlet under the deck and
to the pole.
I wired up a wall
outlet using a half-hot method.
I
wanted the lights to be on a dimmer because with 5 strands of lights they can
get a bit bright.
I wired the
bottom outlet to be used only with the wall dimmer while the top outlet would
always be on.
I wired everything
up and gave it a test.
It worked
beautifully. This video helped me a lot when wiring a half-hot outlet:
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Got the dirt and the sod cleared and the lights wired. Isn't it so pretty? =) |
Once the deck was finished and the lights were up we added
our patio furniture and the grill and called her done. I am so excited to have this build completed. We finished the deck on
January 8, 2017 totaling a 20-day build, not counting my days working Grinchmas at Universal. So overall I am very happy with the
results. I still have to stain the
deck but must wait a few months for the chemicals and moisture to evaporate
from the wood. I think we are going
to go with a redwood/ cedar wood color for the final stain.
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